Wednesday, March 30, 2022

Pt 2 Overhead Wraparound Tunic (Not Poncho, Cape, Cloak)

 

My emphases in "Pt 1 Overhead Wraparound Tunic from 60" x 24" Fleece Piece" were fleece and the making of my tunic. This article provides additional resources about the material. I also include resources regarding my initially intended project—poncho or cape.

Maybe my approach should have been to research those garments BEFORE I bought the fleece. Ponchos and capes seem easy to make; however, they require huge amounts of fabric, unlike the more compact tunic that I wound up with.

Fleece Resources

"This Fleece is not that fleece ? Then What is Fleece?" describes the fabric and features. The site explains uses and differences in types, depending on material origin. Nearer the end of article, the do's and don'ts are good advice, many reiterating tips in other sites I've cited.

"How to Sew with Fleece, Useful Sewing Information for a Beginner" delivers excellent info in q/a format. Turns out that I didn't need to prewash, machine dry, and press my fleece before working on it, per "Should I pre-wash the fleece?" section.

"Working With Fleece" includes close-in images and provides advice for novices and experienced stitchers:

Always use a good quality, general purpose thread such as Gutermann Sew-All and a universal / standard point needle, size: 90/14. ... Fleece does not fray too easily, so neatening seams is not essential, but you can neaten with a regular or three step zigzag stitch, if required. ... However, you may find because of the stretchy nature of fleece, that the fabric edge will curl and wave. ...

"12 Tips for Sewing With Fleece" provides information for fleece and working with it. The following tips differ from non-fleece material:

  • Stay stitching
  • Sewing two edges together and keeping the seam flat, accompanied by pictures
  • Stitch length of 3 (.12) to 5 (.2) Millimeter, IOW, range of 5 to 6 threads to the inch
  • Reducing machine tension

The tips look most useful for more complicated clothing than a simple cape (one seam); I skipped the new-needle advice.

Related video WRT staystitching how-to and why: "Stay Stitch for Beginners | Uses & how-to with seamstress Angela Wolf"

"16 Tips for Sewing with Fleece" is similar to the 12-tip site, with additional tips and more explanation. Good for reiterating bits of advice.

"Sew/Serge A Professional Looking Fleece Blanket in 45 Minutes" caught my eye for fleece use and possible project. The techniques are more advanced and the sewing machine more complicate than I have. It does provide good info about sewing two pieces that have rounded corners, then clipping. The finished edge looks really nice!

Capes, Ponchos, Cloaks, Oh My!

I was able to find resources contrasting cape/poncho and cape/cloak. It's possible that ponchos and cloaks differ enough that they might not pop up in consciousness at the same time.

"Trend Watch: Capes and Ponchos" describes the differences succinctly:

So, what's the difference between cape and poncho? Circle vs. square. The cape has a circular shape and tends to have an opening in front, while the poncho is shaped like a square with a hole in the middle.

"What’s the Difference between Capes and Cloaks?" has a wealth of historical context about capes and cloaks, including several still pictures (many from movies). The commonality is that "both capes and cloaks are made of a single piece of fabric that hangs loose and doesn’t include sleeves."

Capes are typically shorter, falling to the hips or thighs. Some superhero capes are the exception to the length rule — modern versions of Superman’s cape nearly touch the ground. Capes also don’t have hoods most of the time and they don’t necessarily close in the front. ... Cloaks, on the other hand, fall to below to the knees and are often floor length. ... Cloak comes from the French word “cloche,” meaning “bell.” Thus, cloak and “cloche” suggest a wrap narrower at the top and flaring out at the bottom.

To use the word cloak correctly, use it for full-length or calf-length outer garments. Nearly all have a clasp, broach, button, or tie at the neck, many are hooded, and some have arm slits to allow for better movement. ... Capes are a smaller, generally shorter garment and may only cover the wearers back. They don’t have sleeves and rarely have hoods. They are more of an accessory than a source of cover or warmth.

Fleece Ponchos and Capes

A poncho or cape initially looked to be the simplest project for my 60" x 24" fleece piece. I eventually decided my fabric size was more suitable for creating my overhead wraparound tunic instead, In any case, the following resources present simplicity in fleece usage.

"How to Make a Fleece Poncho" shows simple instructions. Appeal of this video: Explicit info about material sizes, no need to hem edges, simple instructions for joining the cowl/hood and main piece. Downside: lots of fabric required, ~ 3 square yards.

"How to Sew a Fleece Poncho – DIY Poncho Tutorial" shows the poncho shape and methodology almost identical to the above YT video info. Biggest difference is size—60 x 54 instead. Concurrence of no need to hem—"Because fleece does not fray, there is no need to finish edges."

The site also includes good info about preparation for joining the neckline to cowl.
Measure one side of the neckline 1/2 inch in from the edge, then double that number to get the full neckline length. Make sure that your cowl piece is this wide plus one inch and 22 inches tall. Also make sure that width is enough to fit over your head!

"DIY Fleece Poncho/Cape | Manifest Destiny" shows a project more ambitious than I'd want to try, such as hood and liner, pockets with liners and flaps. Most of the implementation is thorough. It shows a different way to cut a neckline than at right-angle apex as some other videos show. It has good details about neckline stitching to hood and scarf. I also appreciated the info on sewing pocket hems, snipping at curves (stitches not so straight). Her fleece color choice, similar to mine, might have contributed to my patience to view the entire video.

"How to Make a Cape" shows images and instructions for various capes. The information seems to be less about fleece, judging from seams and edge-finish usages. The basic cape is a circle with a head-sized hole in the middle and one slit from the edge to the hole. Additional instructions and images are for superhero and fairy tale capes.

I omitted resources for making a cloak because of the amount of material and more ambition required. View Google image results for "cloak garment". to see some examples. Think cloaks for Little Red Riding Hood, Handmaiden's Tale, Darth Vader, druids, etc.

Pt 1 Overhead Wraparound Tunic from 60" x 24" Fleece Piece

Awhile ago, I bought a mustard yellow fleece piece that measured 24" (2/3 yard), 60" wide. I wanted to create something to go with a yellowy big-weave poncho and knit hat I've had for a long time. Although I initially considered making it a cape or poncho, the result is my "overhead wraparound tunic".

The laid-out item (front to back) measures about 30" x 45", having cut the piece in two and rotating them for stitching together. The video shows still images for the steps. It also shows how to put it on and use the ties to attach.

My tunic, besides minimizing waste material, required few seams. I staystitched the neckline and also sewed a flat cord (some remnant wide twill tape, I think) to reinforce it. I don't remember when or why I bought the tape, or its original length. Etsy displays reasonable examples. Long story short, I experimented with modeling cut, orientation, and fastening locations and methods.

During the project, it occurred to me that lightweight material is usable for a cooler-weather tunic. I actually have some lightweight patterned material from a long time ago that I could measure out for a summery version tunic. If I were to create it, I'd prefer a longer length.

Fleece Material

Fleece material is not sheep fleece. It feels like flannel, but requires different sewing treatment. It requires more slack tensionings and thread-per-inch settings. The plus side is no hems needed, as stated in "How to Make a Fleece Poncho" and "How to Sew a Fleece Poncho – DIY Poncho Tutorial"

I traveled a circuitous route, with lots of decisions in moving from intending to make a cape/poncho to overhead wraparound tunic. BTW, I later read that my fleece pre-treatment was not necessary, which "How to Sew with Fleece, Useful Sewing Information for a Beginner" addresses in the "Should I pre-wash the fleece?" section.

Tunic, Not Poncho, Cape, or Cloak

After completing my project, I hunted for garments that it might resemble. Most images tended to show open-front overlap garments with ties. Two garments that loosely resemble my result are Siggi BRIGIT iluteenindaja kimono and a beautician tunic. A vintage McCall's apron/tunic paper pattern incorporates an over-head design, with rounded corners at the hems. The open sides with ties contrast with my wraparound fastenings.

Why did I consider my result to be a tunic? QA at Google results for "what makes a tunic a tunic" provides some reasonable explanations:

  • "usually simple in style, reaching from the shoulders to a length somewhere between the hips and the knees"
  • "loose-fitting shirt that looks sort of like a long shirt or a short dress"
  • "loose-fitting upper garment that is longer than a shirt"

"Pt 2 Overhead Wraparound Tunic (Not Poncho, Cape, Cloak)" has more details about the drapey garments (poncho, cape, cloak) that I mentioned in passing. It includes additional fleece resources.